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Ladies Need Lingerie Time

Ladies Need Lingerie Time

The clinginess of fabric cut on the bias makes it ideal for lingerie, as in this camisole and petticoat. In fact, in a suitable fabric, the pattern could just as well be used for a pretty summer skirt and top.

You Will Need Camisole: 80cm (7/8 yd) of 115cm (45in) wide fabric without nap Matching thread Petticoat 2m (2 1/4 yd)of 115cm (45in) wide fabric without nap, Matching thread

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You Could Use

Any light- to medium- weight fabric, such as the crêpe de Chine used here, cotton lawn, fine satin, satin-back crêpe or viscose

Note: This pattern is unsuit­able for stretch fabrics.

Sizes

To fit size 10, 12, 14 or 16

Camisole: finished length from underarm – 27cm (10 1/2 in)

Petticoat: finished length from underarm – 75cm (29 1/2 in)

Making Pattern: For size 12. fold pattern paper in half and. following Pattern Diagram on page 69, draw out pattern pieces full size, placing fold of pattern against fold of paper – one square represents 5cm (2in). Hem allowance of 1.5cm (5/8in) and seam allow­ances of 1.5cm (5/8 in) are included throughout. For Front and Back Facings, trace off upper section of Front and Back above dashed lines; note that these pieces should have grain lines running parallel to the fold, not on the bias as for Front and Back. Transfer all pattern markings onto pattern pieces, and open out pattern pieces to full size.

For size 10. make pattern as for size 12 but position fold line on Back and Back Facing pattern pieces 1.25cm (1/2 in) beyond fold of paper. For both Skirt sections, position fold of pattern 6mm (1/4 in) beyond fold of paper For Front and Front  Facing, cut along dotted line marked on pattern and overlap pattern pieces by 1.25cm (1/2 in). Re-draw neck and hem cutting lines.

For size 14, make pattern as for size 12 but position fold line on Back and Back Facing pattern pieces 1.25cm (1/2in) away from fold of paper. For both Skirt sections, position fold of pattern 6mm (1/4in) away from fold of paper. For Front and Front Facing, cut along dotted line marked on pattern and insert a strip of paper 1.25cm (1/2in) wide. Re-draw neck and hem cutting lines.

For size 16, make pattern as for size 12 but position fold line on Back and Back Facing pattern pieces 2.5cm (1 in) away from fold of paper. For both Skirt sections, position fold of pattern 1.25cm (1/2in) away from fold of paper. For Front and Front Facing, cut along dotted line marked on pattern and insert a strip of paper 2.5cm (1in) wide. Re-draw neck and hem cutting lines.

Camisole

Cutting Out

Lay fabric out flat, right side up, and pin pattern pieces to fabric following Layout Diagram on page 69. For Camisole, ignore Skirt sections. Cut out all pieces and transfer pattern markings onto fabric.

Camisole

From fabric: Front – cut one; Back cut one; Front facing – cut one; Back Facing – cut one; Strap – cut 2.

Petticoat

From fabric: Front – cut one; Back cut one; Front Facing – cut one; Back Facing – cut one; Strap – cut 2; Front Skirt – cut 2; Back Skirt – cut 2.

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Making Up

All seams are stitched with right sides facing then are pressed open unless stated otherwise.

Camisole

  • Stitch darts in Front and press downwards. Stitch Front to Back along side seams. Trim seam allowance to 6mm (1/4 in), neaten raw edges together and press towards Back.
  • Stitch Front Facing to Back Facing along side seams and press. Neaten entire lower edge.
  • Fold each Strap in half length­wise and stitch along length. Trim seam to 6mm (1/4 in) and turn Strap right side out. Press, placing seam along one pressed edge. Topstitch Straps close to both long edges. Pin one end of each Strap to upper edge of Back at position marked by dot and with end of Strap level with upper edge of Back.
  • Stitch facings to upper edge of Front and Back, enclosing ends of Straps in seam. Trim seam and corners, snip along curves and turn facing to wrong side. Press, positioning seam along pressed edge. Topstitch close to upper edge.
  • Neaten remaining free ends of Straps and neatly hand sew ends to inside of Front Facing at top of points.
  • Fold 1,5cm (1/4 in) hem allow­ance to wrong side around lower edge. Turn under raw edge and stitch in place. Press.

Petticoat

  • Make as for Camisole, steps 1 to 5. Stitch Front Skirt pieces together along centre front seam.
  • Stitch Front Skirt pieces together along centre front seam, and Back Skirt pieces together along centre back seam. Trim seam to 6mm (5/8 in), neaten raw edges together and press to one side.
  • Stitch Front Skirt to Back Skirt along side seam edges. Trim seam to 6mm (1/4 in), neaten raw edges together and press seam allowance towards back.
  • Matching side seams and centre front and back points, stitch skirt sections to lower edge of bodice sections. Trim seam to 6mm (1/4 in), neaten raw edges together and press downwards.
  • Fold 1.5cm (5/8 sin) hem allowance to wrong side around lower edge of skirt sections. Turn under raw edge and stitch it.
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