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Do You Want To Know a Big Idea?

Do You Want To Know a Big Idea?

This generously cut overshirt has stand-up sleeves with cuffs, a breast pocket, and buttonholes which are within the capabilities of a beginner.

You Will Need: 2m (2 1/4 ) of 150cm (60in) wide fabric without nap, 80cm (7/8yd) of 90cm (36in) wide iron-on interlacing, 8 buttons, Matching thread

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Sizes

Tofitsize 10-12 or 14-16 Finished length from back neck 79cm (31 in).

You Could Use

Any light- to medium-weight fabric, such as the checked cotton used here, poplin or crepe de Chine

Making Pattern

Following Pattern and Layout Diagram on page 68. draw out pattern pieces full size – one square represents 5cm (2in) Hem allowance of 2.5cm (1 in) and seam allowances of 1.5cm (5/8in) are included throughout. Transfer all pattern markings onto pattern pieces. Adjusting The Size

Pattern given is for size 10—12. To adjust for size 14-16, cut through Front and Back pattern pieces along dotted line and insert a strip of paper 2.5cm (1in) wide. Re-draw shoulder and hem cutting lines.

Cutting Out

Fold fabric in half lengthwise, with right sides facing, and pin pattern pieces to fabric following Pattern and Layout Diagram. Cut out all pieces and transfer pattern markings onto fabric.

From fabric: Front-cut 2; Back-cut one to fold; Pocket – cut one; Collar Stand-cut 2; Collar-cut 2; Sleeve – cut 2; Cuff-cut 2; Cuff opening facing-cut 2.

From interfacing: Front-cut 2, cutting to marked fold line; Collar Stand – cut one; Collar – cut one; Cuff-cut 2.

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Making Pattern

Making Up

  1. All seams are stitched with right sides facing then are pressed open unless stated otherwise.
    Apply interfacing to wrong sides of self-facings along front opening edges of Fronts against fold line. Fold 5cm (2in) to wrong side along this edge and turn under 1.5cm (5/8in) along raw edge Stitch in place close to both folded edges, and again 6mm (1/4in) from folded edges. Press.
  2. Neaten side and lower edges of Pocket Press 6mm (1/4 in) to wrong side across opening edge Fold self-facing to right side across top of Pocket along fold line indicated on pattern and stitch across ends of facing Turn facing to wrong side and press, pressing seam allowances to
    wrong side a long remaing edge.Topstitch facing in place by stitching close to lower pressed edge and again 6mm (1/4 in) from upper edge.
  1. Place Pocket onto right side of Left Front 14cm (5 ½ in) in from front opening edge and with opening edge of Pocket 58cm (22 ¾ in) above hem edge of Front. Topstitch Pocket in position close to lower and side edges and again 6mm (1/4in) from edges. Press.
  2. Stitch Back to Front along shoulder seams and press.
  3. Apply interfacing to wrong side of one Collar piece. Stitch Collar pieces together along straight edges. Trim seam and corners and turn Collar through to right side Press, positioning seam along pressed edge. Top stitch seamed edges close to and 6mm (1/4 in) from edges. Press.
  4. Apply interfacing to wrong side of one Collar Stand piece Press seam allowance to wrong side along neck edge of this section. Matching dots, pin Collar to right side of this Collar Stand piece, with interfaced Collar section against Collar Stand. Lay other Collar Stand piece over these, matching seamlines. And stitch pieces together Trim and snip into seam allowances and turn Collar Stand through to right side. Press, pressing Collar away from Collar Stand.
  5. With right sides facing, stitch uninterfaced Collar Stand section to neck edge of body. Trim and snip into seam allowances and press seam toward Collar Stand Bring pressed edge of interfaced Collar Stand over seam to match stitching line and slip-stitch in place. Topstitch close to and 6mm (1/4 in) from all edges of Collar Stand. Press.
  6. Fold 6mm (1/4 in) to wrong side along upper and side edges of Cuff Opening Facing. With right sides together, lay Cuff Opening Facing over Sleeve, matching cutting lines and dots, and stitch pieces together 6mm (1/4 in) from cutting line, tapering in to nothing and pivoting stitching at dot. Cut centrally between stitching to dot and fold Facing to wrong side. Press. Topstitch Facing in place close to pressed outer edges and seamed opening edges. Press.
  1. Baste darts in cuff edge of Sleeve and press away from cuff opening Matching Sleeve dot to shoulder seam and with cuff opening section of Sleeve to back of body sections, stitch Sleeve to body Press seam towards Sleeve.
  2. Matching armhole and dots, stitch side and sleeve seams in one operation, leaving side seam open below dot Press pressing seam allowances to wrong side along side seam opening edges below dots Turn under raw edges along side seam openings and topstitch in place close to inner folded edges.
  3. Apply interfacing to wrong side of Cuff. Pin one long edge of Cuff to lower edge of Sleeve Position one end of Cuff 4.5cm (1 3/4 in) beyond cuff opening edge nearest sleeve seam and other end of Cuff 1,5cm (5/8 in) beyond cuff opening edge nearest darts Stitch Cuff in place Snip to end of stitching at sleeve seam end and snip into seam allowance to stitching point 4.5cm (1 3/4 in) from this end of Cuff along other long edge Press seam towards Cuff, and seam allowance to wrong side along other long edge of Cuff.
  4. Fold Cuff in half with right sides together and stitch across end nearest darts. At sleeve seam end, stitch across end and along to meet end of Cuff stitching. Trim seam and corners and turn Cuff ends through to right side.
  5. Position pressed edge of Cuff level with stitching line on inside and slip-stitch in place Press Remove dart tacking Topstitch close to and 6mm (1/4in) from all edges of Cuff Press.
  6. Fold 2.5cm (1in) hem allowance to wrong side along lower edges of Fronts and Back Turn under raw edge and baste in place. Topstitch hem in place close to upper folded edge and again 6mm (1/4 in) away from edge.
  7. Make horizontal buttonhole centrally along end of Cuff nearest darts – position end of buttonhole 1.5cm (5/8 in) from end of Cuff. Attach button to other end of Cuff to correspond.
  8. Make horizontal buttonhole centrally along right front end of Collar Stand-position end of buttonhole 1.5cm (5/8 in) from end of Collar Stand. Make a further 5 vertical buttonholes in Right Front centrally between lines of topstitching; position centre of top buttonhole 8.5cm (3 1/4 in) below buttonhole in Collar Stand and space remaining buttonholes 10cm(4in) apart. Attach buttons to Left Front to correspond.
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